Michelle Obama made waves this week wearing a floor-length white column gown by Naeem Khan to a state dinner for Germany. She looked almost as spectacular as she did in the shimmering gold strapless Naeem Khan gown she wore to a state dinner for India last fall, which remains her finest fashion moment. Khan has established himself as a master of special event dressing. (Surprisingly, Annette Bening was the only lady who wore Khan to the Oscars this year.) His gowns have Halston-like sophistication and Bob Mackie-like exuberance. They’re appropriate and also over-the-top.
What Khan does best is dresses. He does them knee-length, cocktail length and ankle length, and he does them fitted to the body, draped asymmetrically like saris, and flowing like kaftans. He keeps the silhouettes simple and then drenches them in intense, all-over embellishments. It’s in these embellishments (threadwork, ostrich feathers, metallic filligree, beading, gilding, embroidery) that he excels. Restraint is not an option; the ornament is essential to the garment.