Scandinavians are awfully cavalier about their treasures. The Munch canvases in Norway’s National Gallery are displayed near rooms with open windows. (More about the rooms, and the paintings, later.) The Danish crown jewels, on display in the basement of Rosenborg Castle in Copenhagen, a royal residence from the seventeenth century, are crowded in vitrines that tourists squeeze through and photograph without supervision. In any other country (which is to say, in the United States), pieces this precious would be secured with armed guards and bulletproof glass in a bunker.
While they’re appropriately dazzling, the Danish crown jewels aren’t as formidable as the English or as fairytale-wondrous as the Russian. By comparison they are, like the security, remarkably informal. What struck me most was how so many of the designs steer away from abstraction and incorporate flowers and figures. It gives them a fizzy, Pop-Art sensibility. There’s a charming chain strung with elephant charms, a small lion bowl, and several pieces with skulls in them. This seventeenth-century chalice has a porcelain skull with glittering stone eyes. It’s kooky and Gothic, and calls to mind both Hamlet and Damien Hirst. The official English-language museum text reassures us that the skull is a symbol of “eternity” rather than mortality. Graced with diamonds and emeralds and set in gold, with a dramatically flaring base, it possesses a seriousness that so much contemporary skull imagery, which adorns everything from oxford shirts to baby clothes, just doesn’t. It’s grave.