Last week, after lunch at a purposefully disheveled Brooklyn restaurant serving artisanal junk food (mac-and-cheese sandwiches pan-fried in butter, deep-fried chicken topped with coleslaw and hot sauce, collards stewed in maple syrup), I walked back home over the Williamsburg Bridge.  The Williamsburg Bridge is an ugly stepsister to the city’s historic interborough bridges.  A pragmatic, unadorned structure, it lacks the romantic grandeur of the Brooklyn Bridge and the surreal grace of the Verrazano Narrows Bridge.  It’s a workhorse, carrying cars, subways, bikers and pedestrians between the hippest hipster precincts of the Lower East Side and Brooklyn.  Its walkways are paved in asphalt and its steelwork is painted a flat red, as if it were treated with a primer coat and then abandoned.  The bridge is a splendid walk at night.  The walkway is close to the subway tracks, so every few minutes there’s a thundering train to one side and, to the other, the serene spread of water below.  And when you arrive at the midway point a dreamy, twinkling, panorama of Manhattan takes shape.  It’s a gritty, glamorous image.

My friend, an architect-turned-photographer who lives on the Lower East Side and walks the bridge frequently, laments that the city hasn’t made more of the structure.  There could be gorgeous arcades at the long, sloping on and off pedestrian and bike ramps.  There could be lighting that flatters the structure and made the walk feel more secure at night.  And there could be uniquely crafted railings, gratings, paving and signage.  At both ends of the bridge there are communities bristling with bohemian energy, and with artists and designers.  Why doesn’t the city get some federal infrastructure improvement funds, get some community artists on board, and give the bridge a more artful appearance.

Sometimes I think that New York City is becoming a Third World country.  There’s litter in the streets, bad driving, tribal allegiances, a riot of dialects, and piercing odors.  And there are pedicabs.  It’s barbaric for a man to peddle visitors around Beijing or Bombay, and it’s barbaric around Manhattan too.  New York City pedicab drivers certainly don’t seem oppressed.  They smile brightly and have the confident, healthy glow of college athletes.  Although pedicabs have been praised as fuel-efficient transportation, they’re still almost exclusively patronized by tourists.  But they point to a big gap in the city’s transportation system.  There’s a real need for private transportation that’s more informal and less expensive than a cab.

I vote for the auto rickshaw, just like the ones that swarm Indian streets.  They’re basically motorcycles with a seat in back and a shell above.  They’re open to weather but but give a sense of freedom, and leave passengers open to interaction with other city characters.  (This video, moralizing aside, gives a sense of what the ride is like.)  There was a failed effort recently to bring them into the country from Asia.  With Mayor Bloomberg hell-bent on eliminating cars (as well as smokers and trans-fats) from the city, the auto rickshaw could be one solution.

Seeing a photograph of a building is, really, seeing a fantasy.  This hit home last week when I heard Charles Kramer, an architect at Beyer Blinder Belle, speak about the rehabilitation of Eero Saarinen’s TWA Terminal at JFK Airport in New York City.  Kramer explained that the interior of the building has been refurbished with the original white penny tile.  The only surfaces inside the central space that aren’t finished in tile are the counter and flight board at the information station, shown above.  I had always thought the interior was white-tinted concrete.  The notion of penny tile – just that word penny – takes some wind out of the storied, soaring structure.

It’s the famous photos of the Terminal by Ezra Stoller that, to a large part, shape that fantasy.  They’re richly textured, and brilliantly composed to dramatize the building’s gentle asymmetries.  Here the sweeping forms look like they’re made of some magical, immaculate material, not like they’re covered in cheap tile.  Kramer explained that three sizes of penny tile were used, each smaller than a penny.  The largest tiles were laid out over the surfaces in sheets and then loose, smaller tiles were set in between to accommodate the complex, curving geometries.  I haven’t been inside the building yet, but imagine that a great deal of the fantasy survives.