Rihanna won Worst Dressed accolades from several pundits today for the striped, white Jean Paul Gaultier dress she wore on the red carpet at last night’s Grammy Awards.  It made her look like a very, very pretty Doctor Seuss character.  But she made up for it later when she took the stage to perform “Love The Way You Lie” with Eminem in a stunning Dior ball gown.  The dress had a folded, fitted black bodice and a bell-shaped bottom that exploded in petal-like layers. 

The song is about an abusive relationship, of which Rihanna knows.  Facing a field of devouring flames, as well as Eminem, she stood strong.  The gown, both tumultuous and lady-like, suited her perfectly.  On an evening full of leather and fur and sequins and latex, she had the purest, boldest costume.

Long before the House of Balenciaga got hot for its studded, streamered leather handbags and its Space-Age Warrior Princess minidresses, it was reknown for the hyper-elegant creations of its founder, couturier Cristobal Balenciaga.  The exhibit “Balenciaga: Spanish Master” at the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute on Park Avenue makes clear how little the image of the current brand has to do with Balenciaga’s inspired, rigorous, dream-like garments.

Balenciaga highlighted a woman’s neck and downplayed everything below with softly sculpted garments that hung away from the body.  His gowns and jackets create shapes that are architecturally structured but still tethered to the body like force fields.  One signature feature is an integral or removable cape, derived from a priest’s or matador’s coat, that masks and embellishes the wearer’s shoulders and arms.  The image of women sliding about in these caped garments, often handless and armless, is striking, surreal and graceful.  The dresses are like gorgeous cocoons.

Aricoco’s amazing garments (they were on display at the New York Studio Gallery) are made from fabric scraps, vinyl, latex, buttons, and newspaper, stitched together by hand.  Each one is formless when unoccupied but takes shape when someone puts it on.

These pieces reminded me of crinolines, latch hook rugs, chairs by the Campana brothers, and the way homeless people sometimes dress in layers and layers of clothing.  There were looped videos in the gallery of the artist modeling them herself, but I really wanted to see a gallery-goer choose one, buy it, and wear it right out onto the streets of the Lower East Side.