When does marketing and merchandising overwhelm the quality of a product?  The chocolates of Pierre Marcolini, which friends in Antwerp and Brussels explained were the finest, are so highly aestheticized that they seem more like precious stones than sweets.  The store in Antwerp could be mistaken for a jewelers, with its sumptuous finishes, ethereal lighting, and museum-like vitrines.  Even the company’s website is an over-the-top experience, with hyper-real images of cocoa beans, pistachio nuts, orange rinds, and all the other things that go into their confections.  This formal splendor quenched any need I had to taste the chocolate.


When in Belgium I sampled all the predictable forms of chocolate, including sauce over ice cream, squares from a fancy shop on Rue Sablon, and a drink so thick that it felt as if it were at any moment going to settle into a solid.  But my favorite chocolate experience was walking the cobbled streets of Gent at nightfall (which happens in the summer after ten o'clock) and eating a Cote d'Or hazelnut bar from its plastic wrapper, the crumbs spilling all over my dress.  The brand was founded in 1883, and their logo is a roaring elephant, to evoke the African origin of the beans.  In the same way that it’s ridiculous to think that tea comes from England, it’s ridiculous to think that chocolate comes from Belgium.  Nonetheless we do, and, if nothing else, it gives a reason to indulge.