LOOKING AT LUPITA
There’s something a bit disingenuous about America’s love fest for starlet Lupita Nyong'o. Yes, she is gorgeous and talented and intelligent and accomplished. This Mexican-born, Kenyan-raised, Yale-educated actress, barely thirty, has won an Academy Award, was named People Magazine’s Most Beautiful Person 2014, and now graces her first American Vogue cover. The press she receives is unanimously glowing, so much so that I sense, lurking underneath, undertones that are self-congratulatory (in acknowledging the physical beauty of a black woman), exoticizing (in adopting her as a symbol for all our notions about “Africa”), and aspirational (in assuming that she’ll receive the same opportunities as a white actress of her caliber).
The Vogue spread is tasteful and predictable. The text, by Hamish Bowles, says she’s “as beautiful and hieratic as an ancient Egyptian statue of a cat goddess." The locations are, of course, in Africa, though nowhere near Kenya. Most of the shots were taken inside the Ksar Char-Bagh resort in Marrakech, and two were taken outside at the local market. Lupita is styled in two distinct ways: in clothes that are minimalist and earth-toned – non-fashion – and in clothes that are hyper-embellished – ethnic. In the first photograph she’s standing in a stiff Martha Graham-like position, with both arms and one leg raised. In other shots she’s reclining, on a lounge and then on a big blue exercise ball. Except for a single picture of her in the market, wearing a cartoonishly oversized hat and grinning straight at the camera, she seems passive, a lovely ornament. And, aside from a pair of fringed, baubled, thin-strapped Casadei stilettos she’s wearing throughout, there’s nothing bold, nothing high fashion, about the images.
Now take a look at Lupita’s spread from February’s Vogue Italia. Here she’s wearing separates from St. Laurent by Heidi Slimane, and photographed by Tom Munro against an inky blue backdrop. The shots have a metallic finish that gives her skin a cool glimmer, and highlights the silky, sequined, form-fitting clothes. In these shots she’s energetic: striding, shrieking, vamping, smoldering, leaping in the air. She’s styled simply, without jewelry, and with a blood-red enamel on her lips. The images are strongly graphic, and in them her presence is assertive, sexual, and emotional. The difference in tone says something about the editorial policies of these two editions of Vogue. Does it also say something about the way Americans see Lupita?
Photo by Tom Munro. Lupita Nyong'o from Vogue Italia, February 2014.